A chef's guide to London's best Sunday lunches

A chef’s guide to London’s best Sunday lunches


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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’sdriving to London

I didn’t grow up eating a traditional Sunday roast. We used to have it instead, which was something I always looked forward to. My mom is an amazing cook so they were always a cut above your average fare. Although I have no memories of traditional Sunday roast tables laden with brilliant meat items and Yorkshire puddings, I still cherish the ritual of a weekend meal and sitting around the family table, which I brought on the first day. The Camberwell Arms.

To me, focusing too rigidly on the components of a traditional roast overlooks the true importance of sitting down together and sharing a meal. That’s why I prefer to call it Sunday lunch. The goal is to enjoy a few hours of fun with friends or family, enjoying food and the company of others.

With that in mind, I’ve put together a list of my favorite places for a Sunday lunch in London. It includes three pubs, each offering something recognizable yet distinctly its own, and three restaurants that embrace the communal dining experience.

Pubs

Canton Arms (Stockwell)

177 South Lambeth Road, London SW8 1XP
Short rib slow cooked at the Canton Arms © Matt Hickman

I worked in this London institution for many years ago, and as far as pub roasts go this is up there among the best. Charlie Bousfield and Trish Hilferty, the owners, have worked hard over the years to maintain the feel of a proper boozer without compromising on the quality of the food. Roast beef, roast potatoes, horseradish crème fraîche and watercress is your go-to single roast, but expect great sharing platters for the table. Dining at the Canton Arms feels like a family affair, and it’s perfect for precisely that reason. The website;Indications


The Clarence Tavern (Stoke Newington)

102 Stoke Newington Church Street, London N16 0LA
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On the Sunday lunch menu at the Canton Arms. . .
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. . . roasts like shoulder of lamb take center stage

A long Sunday lunch at the Stoke Newington outpost from the guys behind The Anchor and Hope in Waterloo is hard to beat. Similar in style to The Camberwell Arms or Canton Arms, but certainly distinct – once again, sharing roasts take center stage, alongside one of London’s deepest and most exciting wine lists, curated by Sam Gleeson, a good friend and a truly obsessive collector. of beautifully made wines. The website;Indications


The Waterman’s Arms (Barnes)

375 Lonsdale Road, London SW13 9PY
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“The perfect place to luxuriate in a long lunch with friends”: The Waterman’s Arms is close to the Thames © Matthew Hague

Sam Andrews, the chef at Waterman’s, has been my head chef for four years and is one of my favorite chefs in London. He is not only a talented and thoughtful cook, but also a lovely man. Their Sunday menu includes slow-roasted pork and lamb to share, while also showcasing Sam’s love of the best seasonal produce. Attention to detail is the key to Sam’s cooking, and this beautiful riverside pub makes a perfect place to luxuriate over a long meal with friends. The website;Indications


Restaurants

Selale (Harringay)

1-2-3 Salisbury Promenade, Green Lanes, London N8 0RX

I was once taken to this Turkish restaurant on Green Lanes by a Turkish restaurateur and immediately fell in love after seeing the massive team of chefs working along an enormously long charcoal grill. They offer a mixed-grill plate that features almost everything on the menu, served with rice, bread and sauces for the table. The dish includes koftas, shish, lamb ribs and even grilled curds, all perfectly seasoned, spiced and cooked. I like that the portion size is determined by the number of diners, enhancing the ad hoc communal dining experience. The website;Indications


Picnic (Bermondsey)

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French Sunday lunch at Pique Nique in south London: veal fillet en croute. . .
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. . . or maybe rotisserie chicken, served with herb sauce, fries and salad

Pique Nique always serves a variety of sharing main dishes, each absolutely delicious. Whether it’s the comforting roast chicken with herb sauce, fries and salad, or the classic venison fillet in crust with petit pois French styleThese dishes are perfect for a delicious, albeit non-traditional, French Sunday lunch. The website;Indications


Royal China

locations throughout London

Dim sum is one of my favorite Sunday fare. I need little persuasion to go out for Chinese food (frankly, any opportunity is good for me), but perhaps the dim sum experience is my favorite – and Royal China is one of those London establishments you can trust a again and again. . (There are a lot of places around the city, but Baker Street is my favorite branch.) There is something about many beautiful plates or steamer baskets full of glutinous deliciousness and flavor that never get old to me. A large round table with a Lazy Susan in the middle moaning with good food feels like the epitome of communal dining. The website;Indications

Mike Davies is the chef-director ofThe Camberwell Arms inLondon SE5and the author ofCooking for the people

What do you think is London’s most delicious Sunday lunch? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at@FTGlobetrotter

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